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Home » Featured, culture

Wine Country in Argentina

Submitted by gina on March 12, 2009 – 3:43 pm2 Comments
Wine Country in Argentina

Just last week, I took a little weekend trip to Mendoza, Argentina – renowned for the Malbec varietal of grapes that have put Argentina on the wine producing map, beautiful mountains and archaeological sites and of course, summer sun and lots of fun.

Located only a two hour plane ride (or a more affordable overnight bus trip from Buenos Aires), this mountain dessert region has charm and beauty rolled into one. The city itself rests in the valley of the surrounding mountains – the foothills of the Andes Mountain Range. We spent a day exploring the mountains and experiencing some of the famous Andean cuisine before spending a day experiencing some of the famous Argentine varietals of wine that are produced in this region.

Now, we drove our car from Buenos Aires, but another one of the ways you can make your way through the mountains is by taking a full day trip to the Puente de los Incas. There are tons of tour companies available including more intimate, 4 x 4 overland tours – all relatively easy to find and book via your hostel, hotel or tourist information booth once you’re in town. Any way you decide to travel, you’ll be surrounded by the majestic Andes at every turn with a lot of picturesque moments and plenty to talk about.

If you’re looking for an alternative route through the mountains, why not try putting on your bathing suit and picking up a paddle – by that I mean take the trip Whitewater rafting. Again, there are plenty of companies that can lead you on the tour successfully and safely. Ask for some recommendations at the Tourist Info Center in the city.

In the Mendoza region there are literally, thousands of vineyards, each producing distinct varietals of grapes in varying quantities. Before going to Mendoza, we asked a lot of advice from friends about which vineyards to see while we were in Mendoza. Even when we were there, we began asking around, and everyone seemed to direct us to “La Rural” – one of the largest producers in the Maipu area. They distill, bottle and package wines from various popular brands such as Trumpeter and San Felipe and talk extensively about their production process and have a quaint museum showing the history of wine making in Argentina. We took the advice of a local in Mendoza city and went to the vineyards of Carinae. Their bodega was about an eighth of the size of La Rural and it was great to see the contrast between the two places – Carinae bringing a more artisanal quality to the mix.

Right before heading off to the next few places, we stopped by Luar – an olive orchard and distributor of all sorts of olive goods. We picked up some natural olives, olive oil, and some olive paste (not just for us, they were GIFTS! I swear!!). See, in Buenos Aires, if you buy olives from your local deli, they’re always in this way-too-salty solution. I have to soak the olives in water for at least a day just to remove some of the salt from the olives so that the olive flavor comes out.

We took the suggestion from our guide at Carinae and headed over to Vina de Cuerno – another family owned bodega with a fine selection of wines. We couldn’t decide what to get for ourselves and what to get for our family! But, we did purchase a 2002 Tempranillo that was one of the best tasting wines that I had that entire day. Our last stop was the bodega of Tempus Alba. They were the most technologically advanced of all the wineries – and walking into the place was a bit like deja-vu. It was a lot like walking into the Chandon bodega in Napa Valley, California.

Along the way, we met a lovely couple from Canada. They were with us throughout the day and we just had such a lovely time together – we’re so happy that we could make some new friends. They took the bus out to the vineyards and went to the bike rental place because their guidebook said that they would be able to rent some sort of motorized bike – but when they arrived, they found out that wasn’t the case. Sometimes it’s good to check and even double-check the validity of guidebooks as companies change what they offer sometimes on a yearly basis.

Bodegas in this area aren’t really that close together, so there were a lot of people who rented bikes for the day to get from one to the other. Otherwise, tours can always be arranged from your hotel or hostel, however they usually only visit two or three bodegas that accept larger group tours. On my first trip to Mendoza in 2004, I did this – and it was nice. I got to visit the Weinert bodega whose wine is very impressive – the others aren’t worth mentioning.

Now, if you want the experience of wine tasting but perhaps now isn’t the right time to get out there, I have a great option for you. Just near the Abasto Shopping Center is Nigel Tollerman’s cave and business, 0800-VINO. Nigel is originally from England and moved to Buenos Aires in 2002 to complete an MBA, and in the meantime, also completed his professional wine qualifications before eventually opening up his ingenious wine delivery business. He gave me all sorts of advice on where to go and what to do in Mendoza but apart from that – the man KNOWS HIS WINE. Can we say “expert”? 0800-VINO occassionally holds tastings and if you want to know more about the service, visit the website or contact them directly (from within Buenos Aires) at 0800-122-8466.

Here are some valuable links for Mendoza:

Where to Stay:
I stayed in a big Spanish-styled house called Chimbas Hostel. I stayed in the suite with the private bathroom. There is a pool, cat, dog, parilla, big beautiful garden and kitchen – and above all, it’s very clean and the people who work there are very nice. It’s just not tooooooo convenient as it’s just outside of the downtown area. But well worth it. I found it on www.hostelworld.com – they also give 10% discounts if you book through the website.

If you’re looking for a more luxurious setting, the Park Hyatt has a big, beautiful hotel and casino in the center overlooking the main plaza. And for those looking for that “in between”, check out the official website of the city where there are a lot of suggestions.

What to Eat:
There are tons of cafes, bars and pizzerias that are open until the wee hours of the night, however, there are some things typical to the region that are a “must try”. If you can find it on the menu, try some Chivito (baby goat) as it’s fresh and cooked to perfection here.

For light food and lots of bars on Friday and Saturday nights – there is a lot to be seen along Aristedes Villanueva Avenue. And don’t forget that Argentines (no matter where they’re from) love their ice cream. Check out Feruccio Sopelsa ice cream shops for their interesting and innovative variety of ice creams (including some made with the local grapes!)

Mendoza City Tourism Website:
http://www.welcometomendoza.com/
http://www.turismo.mendoza.gov.ar/

Festivals:
Every year in the beginning of March, Mendoza celebrates their Grape Harvest with the Vendimia Festival. The official website is here: Vendimia Festival

0800-VINOS, Buenos Aires:
http://www.0800-vino.com

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2 Comments »

  • Marie says:

    Gina–nice article on Mendoza! We just loved it there and we definitely recommend the Cavas Wine Lodge as a place to stay. By the way, I love the new look of your site!

  • jack parler says:

    I found your blog on google and read a few of your other posts. I just added you to my Google News Reader. Keep up the good work. Look forward to reading more from you in the future.

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