Buenos Aires Style » accomodation

La Feliz – Mar del Plata and the Atlantic Coast

gina — Mon, 23 Nov 2009 22:30:45 +0000

With the weather turning ever warmer as the days pass and the spring showers come and go, one thing can be guaranteed – it’s going to get hot, hot, HOT – real soon. Although it’s fairly common for many Argentines to go to their summer homes in the country (suburbs) to trade their time away from the sticky city air in exchange for trees, a golf course and a swimming pool, even more people flood to the coast that stretches south of Buenos Aires.

Within the province of Buenos Aires that stretches down to Bahia Blanca, there are more than 700 kilometers (434 miles) of coastline to enjoy and explore. All along the coastline there are many towns and cities worth investigating and there are several ways of reaching them. But when you think beach cities, please don’t have the expectations of places like Miami or Rio de Jaineiro – although these beaches are fun and warm the experiences are different because the cities along the Atlantic coast of Argentina are a lot smaller than other big cities.

How to get there:

Bus: Buses in Argentina aren’t as uncomfortable as in the United States – in fact, they’re quite spacious and affordable. Buses that go to the Atlantic Coast leave frequently from the Retiro Station in Buenos Aires and tickets can be purchased from any of the official vendors at the station in advance of travel.

Train: The train company that stops at select coastal cities is called Ferrobaires. Trains leave from the Constitucion Station and during peak travel season, there are two new first-class, non-stop services to Mar del Plata called the “Marplatense” and “Expreso del Atlantico”.

Car: As exciting as it sounds to just hit the National Route #2 straight to Mar del Plata, there’s an alternative route #11 that rides the coastline from just south of Buenos Aires to just south of Mar del Plata called Mar del Sur. Driving your own car or renting a car for the trip is really worth it since you are at your leisure to stop and see and do and discover whatever you want. Plus, it’s probably the most economical way of getting around for a group of friends or a family.

Plane: Aerolineas Argentinas offers several flights per week going to Mar del Plata and Bahia Blanca.

Just two hours south of Buenos Aires by car is a cluster of small coastal towns including San Clemente del Tuyu, Santa Teresita, Mar del Tuyu, La Lucila del Mar and Mar de Ajo. These are all smaller villages and towns that pick up during the summer and come alive with lots of activities for everyone. There are thermal springs, lots of beaches, good food, small concerts and asados in the parks where everyone is invited. Some of these towns are kind of kitch and really can take you back to another era, however when you want to find yourself on the beach with few cares in the world, these small and relatively inexpensive towns can be a lot of fun.

About 50 kilometers (20 mi.) south of Mar de Ajo is the resort city of Pinamar. It’s much larger than the previously mentioned towns with lots of activities from riding a 4×4 or sandboard down the dunes and golfing to art galleries, spas and shopping. There are lots of nightclubs that book international DJs in the summer and the party moves to the beach after a long night out on the town. Just south of Pinamar are Villa Gessel, and Carilo – worth mentioning for its lovely little town center (expensive, but quaint) and the Carilo Golf Club – one of the finest that I’ve seen in Argentina.

Moving about an hour south of here is the gem of the coastline – Mar del Plata. Once considered the Riviera of Argentina, Mar del Plata (also known as “La Ciudad Feliz” – the happy city) is still home to one of Argentina’s largest casinos and several annual conventions and festivals (most famously the Mar del Plata film festival).

For me, the port is not the best place to go to get fresh seafood (for those of you living in Buenos Aires, remember what that is?? fresh fish – omg!). Well, I’ve found a place that is just as comfortable as the food. “La Taverna Baska” is located at 12 de Octubre, 3301 and is one of the most authentic restaurants that I’ve ever eaten in in Mardel. I’ve had a number of dishes, but the fresh grilled tuna steak (bife de atun) or a Spanish tradition, squid in their own ink (chipirones en su tinta) slow baked with an almost risotto is so amazing that it’s like being in Spain. You can surely find great ice cream, pastas and parillas as you would in Buenos Aires as well. If you’re looking for casual dining in a bar like setting that is not pretentious yet has excellent food, check out the Almacen Condal on the corner of Garay and Alsina. There you can find really well prepared food and some great drinks, pool tables and in general, really nice, normal people. There are also tons of trendy restaurants, cafes and bars along Guemes Street where you can find tons of people along this strip on most weekend nights – even in the winter.

When I stay in Mar del Plata, I tend to go to the Hotel Imperio – just because of its proximity to Playa Varese (my preferred beach) and Tio Curzio (my favorite cafe) with the best medialunas (spanish for croissants) in all of Argentina. Now here’s where it’s convenient to have a car: there is a ton of surfing in the beaches just north of the cliffs of Mar del Plata.

Hertz Rental Car has just started doing some vacation packages. They offer a package for the rental car and a stay at the bed and breakfast / hostel, Casa del Balcon in Mar del Plata. It’s a cute place, but kind of inconvenient since you have to drive all the way across town to go to the cool beaches or nice bars, restaurants and such. Plus, you’d probably want to not take a car out if you’re going to a restaurant or bar and plan on having a few drinks, anyway.

Sweets
One of the wonderful things about traveling the coast of Buenos Aires is not only seeing the diverse landscapes and going to the beach but also trying the many variations of sweets that the coast has to offer. You may know about the infamous alfajore (pronounced alfa-hore, keep your jokes to yourself, please…) and consists of a thick layer or two of filling – usually dulce de leche or chocolate or fruity jam sandwiched between two cookies and coated with chocolate or powdered sugar.

The wonderful thing is that every town along the coast has their own version, their own specialty alfajore if you will… and each one is better than the next. Havanna brand is one of the largest producers of alfajores in Argentina and is actually based out of Mar del Plata.. but near by (and just a short drive away) is Balcarce, a small town that has it’s own pastry and cake fair in the spring and a little closer to Bahia Blanca is a quaint little village called Sierra de la Ventana. There’s lots of hiking and rock climbing, nature walks and all sorts of things to do where the hills lead pointing towards the Andes Mountain range. But in this small village is a place called Sozzani – who makes the best alfajores in all of Argentina. Believe me, I’ve tried to try them all…

Anyway, now you’re prepared for escaping the heat in the summer in Buenos Aires.

Valentine’s Day

gina — Tue, 10 Feb 2009 14:38:54 +0000

Ahh – el día de enamorados… quite possibly the most romantic holiday of the year. In Chicago, we’re reminded every February of the tragedy otherwise known as the “St. Valentine’s Day Massacre“. Assuming that your Valentine’s Day is not filled with blood, guts or heartbreak, let’s concentrate on making this day a love fest.

Since this year, February 14th falls on a Saturday, you can make this special day last all day and all night long with your special sweetheart. It could be super romantic to wake your lovie up with breakfast in bed, but if you’re not-so-great about preparing something yourself, you still have options. Take them out to Cafe Le Ble (corner of Alvarez Thomas and Cespedes) for some of the most delectable sweet and savory breakfast dishes in town. With their generous cup proportions of cafe con leche – this rustic yet Seattle-inspired coffee house serves up French pastries that are mouth watering – day or night.

Just a few blocks away is Buenos Aires famous flea market – a great detour for anyone – seriously, ANYONE. Take your window shopping to a new level – completely. If your public displays of affection warrant someone screaming out, “Get a room!” instead, perhaps you should do just that. Buenos Aires is known for their Love Hotels (better known as “Telos” – and although some are kitch and creative places to take a “2 hour nap”, others are outright lavish. Try “Dallas” in Almagro (Ecuador 224) – and ask about their “Symbol-Formerly-Known-As-Prince-Room”. For a more kitch approach, “Tu Y Yo” love hotel (Yerbal 4154) offers a more retro design to your short stay. They also have a private garage to park your car.

Now that you’re fired up, several places around the city will keep that red glow glowing. A myriad of aphrodisiac delights await you at Te Matare Ramirez. This Valentine’s Day, they’re in two locations – on Gorritti street in Palermo and there will be a special cruise starting from the port at Olivos and sailing down the river for great views of Buenos Aires, romantic music and of course, champagne, oysters and a three course menu. (Maybe you should check back into that Love Hotel afterwards..).

If that’s not your style, check into the Palacio Duhau for the night – the private Duhau family mansion turned into a mini paradise in the heart of the Recoleta and run by the Park Hyatt is a special treat for that special person. Make reservations at the Duhau Vinoteca (wine cellar) to taste some wines before a romantic dinner in their restaurant. Check out their underground spa the next day with a facial or massages for two.

Looking for a new spin on old-time romance? Don’t waste your money on a dozen roses – consider those dead by February 15th. Pick up your sweetie a creative and exotic bouquet at Clavel (Uriarte 1422). And trade in traditional chocolates for a sweet and non-traditional sensation from Compañia de Chocolates, Buenos Aires’ most innovative chocolatier.

And although it may be impossible to find Chocolate Kisses and Conversation Hearts here in Buenos Aires (that’s a totally North American reference, by the way) – count on one thing, if I make you my special recipe, “Love Potion No. 9″, you’ll Be Mine.

It’s the perfect treat to make even if you’re hanging out solo or staying in with friends that night!

Ingredients:

3/4 oz. campari
2 oz. orange juice
1 1/2 oz. vodka

Mixing instructions:

Mix all ingredients with ice in a blender or a shaker. Pour into a chilled old fashioned glass. (Remember that one ounce is equal to approximately one shot).

Now these may just be the smooches you need!

Mar del Plata Film Festival

gina — Sat, 08 Nov 2008 08:17:41 +0000

Once upon a time in the 70s and 80s, Mar del Plata was THE place for the rich and famous of Argentina to have a weekend home near the beach. Every summer this city just a few hours south of Buenos Aires along the Atlantic Coast would turn into a mini Buenos Aires with an ocean view. Hotels would fill up, the glamour ous casino would experience its hay day and bars, cafes and expensive restaurants filled as this mini-Cannes would become the temporary home to Argentina’s elite masses.

Since the last economic crisis in 2001, Mar del Plata became more affordable to the middle class of Argentina and to this day hotels sell out completely during the peak summer months of November through March.

This year marks the 23rd annual Mar del Plata Film Festival – one of the most prestigious film festivals of South America. Participants include filmmakers not only from Argentina but from the entire world, classifying this festival in the category “A” by the FIAPF, making its counterparts the festivals in Cannes, Berlin and Venice.

This year three movies to keep your eyes on are

1. Panorama by Thomas Clay (Spanish: Soi Cowboy) projected on the 12th and 13th of November
2. The Hurt Locker by Katheryn Bigelow starring Ralph Feinnes and Guy Pearce. Bigelow herself will be attending the event. Check the Mar del Plata Film Festival official website for more information.

From the official festival website:

The Cinema Festival is the annual meeting between the audience and the traditional and avant-guard cinematographies that are screened in the many parallel sections.

Since 1996 up to the last edition in 2007, many foreign personalities have attend the festival, among them Gina Lollobrigida, who was payed tribute for being the most popular celebrity to attend the first festival in 1954, Jacqueline Bisset, Elsa Martinelli, Raquel Welch, Renee Zellweger, Francisco Rabal, Amparo Soler Leal, Lina Wertmüller, Percy Adlon, Arturo Ripstein, Pilar Miro, Dino Risi, Alfonso Arau, Antonio Ferrandiz, Abbas Kiarostami, Maria Grazia Cucinotta, Catherine Deneuve, Geraldine Chaplin, Sonia Braga, Emily Watson, Julie Delpy, Nikita Mijalkov, Sally Potter, Alex de la Iglesia, Liv Ullman, Jeremy Irons, Alan Rickman, Philip Noyce, Istvan Szabo, Gerard Depardieu, Volker Schlöndorff, María de Medeiros, Helen Mirren, Vittorio Taviani, Mario Monicelli, Hanna Schygula, Kathleen Turner, Héctor Babenco, Ken Russell, Bob Rafelson, Norman Jewison, Susan Seidelman, Susan Sarandon, Tim Robbins, Krzystof Zanussi, Michael Winterbotton, Abel Ferrara and Juliette Binoche.

To get to Mar del Plata, there are several buses running daily and nightly from the Retiro station as well as a slightly more expensive option of a train from Buenos Aires. Reserve your hotels in advance as the Davis Cup is happening at the same time. (Keep your eyes peeled for Guillermo Vilas!).

Surf’s up!

Don’t forget your bathing suit and some suntain lotion, because there are miles and miles of beautiful beaches, lots of shopping and nightlife around the city and great seafood to be eaten! Right about now you can also catch a glimpse of the migrating Southern Right Whales by going out to the pier with the Jesus statue that looks like Rio’s Corcovado.

And don’t be fooled by the Port. Although there are plenty of restaurants to find fresh seafood, the Port of Mar del Plata is more buffet style, not so awesome places to eat (imagine “Long John Silvers” food chain).

So my suggestion is to move slightly away from the port. For excellent seafood a must try is the Taberna Baska at 12 de Octubre 3301. One of their specialties is my favorite – “chupirines en salsa negra”, squid cooked in its own ink sauce. Fabulous.

If you’ve got a car or rent a car while you’re down there, its worth a trip to drive just a 15 minutes south of the Farol, the lighthouse to the beautiful cliffs. If you’re not into landscape, there’s plenty of shopping to be done in the city center where they have a street similar to Florida Street in Buenos Aires – no cars allowed, just shopping shopping shopping.

If you’re looking for shopping but are looking for something a little more exclusive, go to the old city center of Mar del Plata, on Guemes Street. You can find some really nice cafes, restaurants, bars, almacens and ice cream shops to enjoy a lovely warm afternoon. But be sure to not overdo going to cafes during the afternoon and evening hours, because the real time to be seen at the cafes in the city so fondly called “La Feliz” (Happy) is at breakfast.

The typical Argentine sits at the cafe in the morning with his cafe con leche and tres medialunas (what other people know typically as croissants). but where you go says a lot about who you are. There are two main cafes that are THE place to be seen in the morningtime. Confiteria Boston that looks out over the ocean is right at the same level as the boulevard where people take their morning walks along the oceanfront just on the Bahia Varesse. Up until a few years ago, medialunas from this place where considered the BEST in Argentina, however there’s another place that has risen to the challenge with a little more sophistication and sweetness. Tio Curzio is a two story restaurant and reception hall located in a restored old mansion looking out over the ocean with an elegant patio, great views and medialunas that are addictive from the very first bite.

Of course, when you arrive to Mar del Plata, you’ll definitely see a lot of advertising for Havanna for the famous alfahore Havanna was born in this city. Go to any of the cafes to try some of their delicious goodies and coffees. Anything Havanna is a great gift from this little city by the ocean.

Just like in Buenos Aires, there are tons of great ice cream shops and pizzerias – which makes the city a great place to go weather you’re by yourself, with some friends or with your family.

For more information on the Film Festival, with listings of the programs and dates and times, go here: http://www.mardelplatafilmfest.com/. But before you go, make sure you have lodging since the Davis Cup is being held in Mar del Plata at the same time this year. That’s a big deal, so check things out before you go.

I’ve been to Mardel several times over the past three years, so check out my Flickr Mar del Plata set.

DF, Mexico, Where Were You All This Time?

gina — Mon, 29 Sep 2008 19:09:58 +0000

I just found this hotel. Now I want to go to Mexico City, just to stay there. It’s called the Condesa, Districto Federal. mm mm mmmm. http://www.condesadf.com/